Brussels

 Last week went by crazy fast; we had two and a half snow days (Caen does not get much snow so when it does, the city can't cope). It felt like I had just gotten back from Paris when I left for Brussels, Belgium Friday night. We stayed at he Youth Hostel Van Gogh; apparently Van Gogh used to work there so you know, I guess thats cool :)

Brussels was a pretty calm trip. The majority of the time we were eating or just wandering around. The waffles are as good as they say. My favorite were the ones that had pearl sugar cooked in them. And they were only one euro! We also tried the famed fries, and ate seafood at Noordzee. We could not leave Belgium without trying the chocolate (Godiva is Belgian if that gives you any idea of its amazingness). The Chocolate Museum demonstrated how to make pralines. I definitely prefer eating the chocolates to making them. There is a lot of waiting involved in the making.

Above: Liege Belgian Waffle

Below: Fish soup and fried fish from Noordzee

We also visited the famous Grand Place; I wish we had been there in Spring when it is filled with a carpet of flowers, but it is still really pretty without them.  Manneken Pis is just around the corner, and way smaller than I thought he would be. There are huge remakes of him everywhere, but he is tiny. There is a woman whose job it is to make little costumes for him. They keep the costumes in the National Museum. He is a national hero. Legend says that he peed out some fire and saved the city. Belgium is a weird but wonderful place....

 We also stopped by the Atomium. Which was way bigger than I thought it would be, but also very strange looking. It is a giant cube made of metal balls and sticks.

Atomium

Getting back to France was a little crazy. We got to the train station early and saw our train had THA next to it, which the information worker informed us meant our train was canceled. Then the train office told us we were being transferred to a train that was leaving in five minutes. We sprinted to the train, but when we got on there were no more seats left, because there had been another canceled train. So my friend Skylar and I sat on the floor of the barroom car for the duration of the 90 minute train. Needless to say, I am happy to be back in Caen!

Oh hello Paris. Did you miss me?

It is snowing hard in Caen today. Normally, I am a big fan of snow. However, it made my walk home from class treacherous and, at times, almost impossible. By the time I got back to the apartment not only was my coat and scarf covered in snow, but my hair was literally frozen. Now that I am cozy and typing in bed, the snow seems much prettier and pleasant.

It's crazy to think just Saturday I was walking around Paris holding my winter coat because it was so warm. Even when I leave Louisville, I can't escape the weird weather changes.

Anyways... Paris was even better the second time around. We could navigate the city much easier since we recognized some of the streets, and we conquered the Metro system (after a few errors and the help of many Parisians.) We got to see a lot of sights, but we also took our time to just enjoy being in Paris.

We climbed the many stairs to Sacre Coeur, and after we went inside, we climbed even more stairs to go into the dome of the church. My ankles were shaking by the time we stopped at a café after. But the views of Paris from Sacre Coeur were amazing.

We also visited the Arc de Triomphe, and enjoyed more of the sunny day there. It was relaxing to sit on the Arc and watch all the cars zoom pass, and tourists take pictures while doing the peace sign.

I have discovered that I love a good statue.
We have got to get some of these in Louisville
and Bowling Green. I also think gold is a must.

Next we walked to the Musée D'Orsay, which personally I would rank above the Louvre. First, because we got in free with our student IDs, but also it is so much more manageable than the Louvre. You also aren't allowed to take pictures, which at first bummed me out, but I think it changes the dynamic of the museum. People looked at the art, and moved on. We didn't have to fight crowds to get around. Plus I recognized a lot more of the artwork. Next we had drinks at the museum restaurant. It was so nice to just sit and relax in such a beautiful room, and I mean beautiful. It had chandeliers, paintings on the ceiling and gold-leaf everywhere. All I could think of was how JD used to crawl on the floor at Kroger by the self-checkouts looking for change, and now I was sitting in a restaurant that looked like Marie Antoinette had designed it. By the time we finished gabbing the museum was closing.

I think my favorite thing to do in Paris is walk by the Seine River. The water is relaxing, with boats always going up and down it.  You pass all sorts of important places and can people-watch. Shakespeare and Company is close to the river, right by Notre Dame. I bought a couple of books and post cards there that they even stamped for me. I also feel the need to comment that it smelt really good in there, like books (no surprise). If intelligence had a smell, I am pretty sure that would be it. We hung out for a little while outside it too. There was a guy playing music and singing, and you could see Notre Dame all lit up.

I bought the third Lord of the Rings in English
and Le Petit Prince in French. I don't have time to tell
you all about this store, but you should definitely
google it, because it it pretty-darn-cool.

The next day we took the Metro to the Catacombs, and let me just say, I did not fully understand what a catacomb was until we were about halfway through them. If you don't know, it was basically an underground grave, with bones stacked everywhere. I am not normally one that enjoys going where exits are not readily available, but that catacombs were crazy-cool. I'm not sure who got stuck stacking all the bones, but they did a killer job (pun a little bit intended.) In some places the skulls where in the shape of a heart or cross. It's creepy to think that they are under your feet when you walk around above ground.

Just a little peak at the catacombs. Another google-worthy search.

Later we went back to see the rest of the Musée D'Orsay, and finally, made our way back to the train station to go home. I think this second trip to Paris was better, because we weren't so worried about seeing important sites, and just enjoyed being there. The city was less overwhelming, and seemed much smaller than the first time we went. I really hope I have a chance to go back one last time before the semester is over so that I can enjoy it even more!

This week it's back to trying to pronounce Rs, and talking about the French Revolution (apparently Marie Antoinette was beheaded at Place de la Concorde which we walked through several times on our trips to Paris. You can't sneeze here with out bumping into something historical!) And then this weekend I am off to Bruxelles!

An Adventuresome Weekend

 This weekend was packed with activities. Friday, we had Thanksgiving dinner for our Australian friend, Grace. It turned out surprisingly well. I expected us to fail a little, but I think we did America proud. We had turkey, mashed potatoes, gravy, green beans, and rolls. There was also an amazing pumpkin cheesecake for dessert.

Saturday morning I got up early to meet my friends at the train station to leave for Mont Saint Michel. It was a convenient trip, considering I just gave a report on the Mont— today.

Fun Fact: I had first heard about Mont Saint Michel on Pinterest; I saw a pretty picture of a far away place, and pinned it so I could look at it later. Who knew that I would actually get to go see something I casually glanced over online!

Legend says that the Archangel, Saint Michel, appeared to Bishop Aubert in 708 telling him to build a church on what was then called, Mont Tombe. After Aubert ignored him two times, Saint Michel burned a hole in Aubert's skull on his third visit. After that, Aubert was ready to go and did as Saint Michel instructed. Since Aubert turned Mont Tombe to Mont St. Michel, it has undergone several additions to the abbey, fortified its walls during the 100 years war, and served as a prison during the French Revolution. Now it serves mainly as a tourist attraction. Although, several Benedictine brothers still inhabit the abbey.

After walking along the picturesque road and climbing lots and lots of stairs, we made it to the Abbey—which we got in for free thanks to our visas. It is still amazing to walk around in such historical places. I cannot imagine how they built such a wonder without all the technology we have today. Once we finished gawking at the abbey, we had a long lunch at a restaurant overlooking the water. It was a pretty spectacular Saturday. Point Normandy.

The weekend's adventures were not over yet. Sunday I had to get up early and meet at the University for a group trip to Bayeux and the D-Day Beaches. We went to Bayeux first, where we visited the Bayeux Tapestry that depicts William the Conquerer's journey to the throne of England. The tapestry is insanely long and detailed. We also had time to see the cathedral Notre Dame de Bayeux. It seems like every town here has ridiculously pretty churches. I am also pretty sure that if your European town does not hold host to an awesome historical event, then you must have been a field of sheep about ten years ago.

After lunch we left to head out to the Beaches of Normandy. We saw a lot of destinations I would never have thought to visit. We went to the point where you can see all of the beaches that the British, Canadian, and American troops landed. Then we went to a site that had German bunkers that you can actually crawl into. We then made our way to the American D-Day Memorial, which is technically on American soil (the French government gave the land to the US). It felt good to be home again in a way.

Everyone kept asking, from an American perspective, what it was like to visit the beaches. I think the best way to describe it is: bizarre. It was weird hearing the videos speaking English, after a month of always expecting to hear French. There was a group of young British students visiting and of course French speakers, but my heart always jumped when I heard someone with an American accent. One of the Americans I heard pretty much summed up my feelings. He said:

"You always hear about these sorts of things, but to actually see it is something else."

We (Americans) learn about all the wars that the US fought in, but they all seem distant, on a map and in time. Although I know WW2 was recent historically, I tend to categorize it along with all the other wars I have had to study. It is another page in my history book I have to memorize. The American Memorial is simple. There is a small museum, and then the cemetery. I think the cemetery is where the reality set in. Seeing all those white crosses and Stars of David, made me think that the people smiling in the pictures I had just seen in the museum, were here, in the ground.

It is, of course, unreal the amount of fatalities, and it  is definitely sad to think about. However,  I was overwhelmingly in awe. I was in awe of the sacrifice that was made, and the gravity of its importance. I felt a somber pride to be from a country that played such a major role in history. At the risk of sounding cliché, I felt very patriotic. America kicked some serious ass—along with its Allied forces. Looking down at Omaha Beach, I wondered if they ever thought that people would come and visit this place, probably not. I guess my American perspective on it all is through the rose colored glasses of a blessed individual, but as I looked toward the direction of the States (the direction that all the crosses face) I felt a sense of solidarity with my fellow citizens present and past.

After the memorial we went to Pointe Hoc, where you can still see the craters left by the  bombs. Besides being crazy-beautiful, it was haunting to think about the chaos that had rained on a place that I was taking pictures of with my friends.

I was exhausted by the time I made it home. I think I am still sore from all my adventures this weekend, but they were well worth it. The rest of the week will be much lighter in spirit. I plan on going to class, watching Modern Family, and preparing to return to Paris this weekend.

Whose life am I living?

Riquiqui

This week has been very relaxed, and filled with new French experiences. I have discovered my new favorite French word, riquiqui. Don't worry about what it means. I love it for the sounds alone. It has replaced concombre which I also liked due to its sound only.

Last Sunday was Elsa's birthday, and Tuesday night she had some friends over to celebrate. I tried a few interesting, but delicious appetizers, and also came to the realization that my professors must be speaking incredibly slow French to us in class. I was a little bit in awe about how few words I could understand from their rapid speech. However, it was kind of fun to guess what they were saying solely based off of their facial expressions and body language. I spoke a little English and Spanish, and very timidly some French. I will say it is always a confidence boost when you say something and people actually understand you. I was really glad I got to meet more French people, especially such friendly ones, and it motivates me to work hard to improve my French so that maybe at the end of the semester I will be able to understand it spoken at a normal pace.

I have been eating a lot of Kabobs lately, which are not of French origin, but the restaurants are everywhere. They are cheap and delectable. Especially now that I have been introduced to Samurai sauce. I really hope Louisville or Bowling Green has something to offer in the way of Kabobs, because they have become my replacement burrito while in France.

Moving on through the week, Thursday the University hosted a dinner of traditional Normandy food for students and their host-families. I accidentally left the house without my host family, because I thought I was meeting them there....Oops! The food was unsurprisingly delicious. I ate quiche, teurgoule, apple tartes, cheese, etc. Hurrah for Normandy!

Friday we got chinese. They served my dumplings in this cute little basket, so I am basically officially in love with that restaurant. Afterwards we went to the movies to see Gangster Squad. We were supposed to be going to one in English with French subtitles, but that was apparently a lie. Besides the names of American cities, the entire movie was in French. It actually turned out to be a lot of fun though. The movie is action packed, so even my friend Jessica, who started French this semester, could follow the story. It was a really great movie from what I could understand in French, so I can't imagine how good it would be in English where I would understand more of the dialogue.

Then on Saturday, we went to the World War II museum. It is really interesting and with our student IDs we got in for only 5 euro. We spent several hours there going through the museum, and then getting some coffee in the café. We went to our friend Grace's apartment for a raclette dinner which is basically the greatest way to eat meat, cheese and potatoes ever. You put the cheese underneath the burner to melt it, and then put all sorts of sliced meet to cook on top of it, like ham and salami. It's serve yourself, and awesome.

Today we got crepes at the crêperie where I think we are officially regulars since we have gone the past three weekends. I always order something different, and it is always delicious. I had a cheese and sausage one today with a side salad, and café au lait. Later, I played more card games with Marine and had another lesson in French pronunciation, concentrating on making that noise that sounds like you're hocking a loogie :) Then we went upstairs to watch the Bachelor in France (I can't believe Livia got to stay,) and to eat dinner.

Street in Caen on the way to the crêperie.

Tomorrow it is back to class, and hopefully the grocery!

Crushing it in Caen

The past two weeks have been filled with classes and trying to make travel plans. Classes have been good. I actually offer up answers without being forced to now! The first week of class I lived in fear of the teacher calling on me, and always tried to look busy or confused and never make eye contact. Friday was a personal triumph, because of the handful of French knowledge that I know, I was able to answer two questions. I think my teachers were impressed that I knew who wrote Madame Bovary (Gustave Flaubert) and that I had seen the movie L'elegance du hèrisson. Class is always interesting with all the different first languages and cultures of my peers. The other day I had to explain to my Japanese classmate that, in English, guys call pretty girls “hot chicks” and not “hot chickens.”  We range from the US and England to Mongolia and Ghana. I can only imagine how hilarious it must be to all out teachers to listen to our awful accents.

The professors here are all engaging and helpful. When I have big breaks in between classes, I like to hide in a corner of the international building on the top floor and read. One of the first days I did that, I met a professor named, Emma. I was in the bathroom pretending to understand what she was saying to me in French, and when I turned around to walk out she asked me in English if I was American. Apparently, an LL Bean backpack is a dead give-away. I’m not actually sure what she teaches at the university, but she has been so nice. She always asks about how I like my host-family, and if I am making friends. She also gave me a website to look at to find stuff to do in France. I keep waiting to meet those stereotypically rude French people, but it just has not happened yet. Maybe I am in the wrong France J

In other news, I think my friends and I have finally figured out how to order train tickets online, which is good, because I think the people at the train station are sick of us trying to buy tickets from them, and then deciding not to go… Other than realizing that traveling to London for a weekend was more expensive that my poor college-student-self could afford, and Fifth Third thinking I was not in France and putting a hold on my card, things have still been going really well.

I went out with the girls from my program on Valentine’s to a restaurant on the road we have deemed “the cute cobblestone road.” I tried duck for the first time, and it was delicious! The only way I could think to describe it to my friends was if a cow and a chicken had a baby, but it was different. They didn’t understand. We had champagne with dinner, and then walked to a gelato shop. Not a very romantic Valentine’s Day, but at least our waiter was cute! We have also found this little crêperie that we have gone to two Saturdays in a row. We went to a karaoke bar with a bunch of people from school this weekend. No one from our group actually got to sing though, because the wait was so long. It was really funny to hear people sing songs in English with thick accents though.

Today I had lunch with my host-family, and came back up to have a crêpe snack. I also got a French reading and pronunciation lesson with the eldest daughter (she is eight). It was actually really helpful, and I think we are going to try to do it several more times. When my lesson was over, we played the French version of the game of “Life.” It was an edition from when the parents were children, and used francs instead of the euro. I also played (and lost) several rounds of Uno. Then I met up with some friends for Kabobs in town.

Saint Pierre Church in
Downtown Caen.

I still have the nasty little habit of pretending I understand what people are saying in French, when in fact I don’t have a clue. I tend to smile a lot and repeat oui, and hope I didn’t miss anything important. Sadly, or luckily depending on how you look at it, my host-mom has caught on and now asks me questions to ensure I actually understood and wasn’t just lying. However, I know my comprehension is getting better even if only a little, and I am starting to gain more confidence to admit defeat and to ask clarifying questions when I am confused. It is also lucky that I can talk to my roommate in Spanish, when I am at a loss for words in French (which is most of the time).  It does feel a little bit like cheating though when I do. I figure it’s okay to though, because:

                    A.     It isn’t English.

                    B.     Practicing Spanish will help me not fail all my Spanish classes next semester.

All in all, France is a huge success. Especially now that I have discovered these little caramel custard cups at the grocery. They taste like little flans, and I have become officially obsessed. But I do miss Mexican/TexMex food. My friends and I had a Taco Night, but it just isn’t the same. The seasoning of food here is much milder than at home, and nothing is very spicy. Plus there is no queso here. I still can’t figure out how people here are living without it.

So...Paris

After a whirlwind weekend in Paris, I am happy to be back in Caen. It is really beginning to feel like home. Orientation week classes start tomorrow, and the following week is the final class schedule. I can’t believe we are just now starting class!

So… Paris. This weekend was filled with many firsts: my first train, first time in Paris, first hostel, first mulled wine etc. Everything seemed to fall perfectly into place for us this weekend. We easily stumbled onto every place we had planned on visiting. We got off the train and set off to find the Galleries Lafayette. I had no idea what this was so I just trotted along after Patricia and Jessica into the center of an upscale shopping center where there is an incredible ceiling at the center. We stood there like typical tourists staring up at the ceiling and taking pictures.

Ceiling at the Lafayette

We did not have a strict plan of where we were going to go or when, but we thought we were close to the Palias Garnier. We walked outside and there it was! The Opera house is the setting for The Phantom of the Opera, and is just generally amazing. In middle school, Miss Haley Gray and I saw the movie in theaters several times, and had the habit of locking the door to her room and belting out the soundtrack. A little part of my soul is at rest now after walking around in the fictional footsteps of Christine Daae. I couldn’t help but hum some of the music while we walked around.

Entry of le Palais Garnier.

Being fabulous in the midst of fabulousness.

Chandelier surrounded by Chagall painting in the theater.

We also visited the Madeleine on our way to the Jardin de Tuileries, where we ate lunch, and tried to keep all the seagulls and pigeons at bay. We went to San Chapelle for free! It is crazy beautiful there. You walk up this twisted stone stair and then, BOOM. It is lined with stained glass windows everywhere, my favorite of which is the rose window. The girls and I already put it on the list to revisit when we return.

Rose window of San Chapelle

We also popped inside Notre Dame. We were really confused as to what was going on. There were people EVERYWHERE. There was some sort of ceremony going on, but of course we couldn’t understand what the priest was saying, because it was all in French. We could barely move it was so crowded, and the center was lined with bells. We stayed for a little while, but decided to head out, and return on another trip. I looked it up when we got back, and apparently it was the 850^th anniversary of Notre Dame, and they had just gotten new bells. So I guess it is kind of cool we were unknowingly there for that, but I mostly just felt like too many people were breathing my air.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/02/notre-dame-bells-850th-anniversary_n_2606375.html?utm_hp_ref=religion

Notre Dame

We went to a small café after for dinner, drank hot wine, and prepared for the hike to the Eiffel tower. The walk to the Eiffel Tower was long and cold, but the Seine River is picturesque at night. We also got to see the Lover’s Bridge on the way. The Tower looked so cool lit up at night. I think it was the perfect time to go too, because it was way less crowded than I expected. After the Eiffel tower we ate crepes at a café to warm up before walking back to our hostel. I had the best night’s sleep so far at that hostel. It was probably, because I was so worn out, but even the itchy wool blanket seemed gloriously comfortable. The hostel was also convenient, because it was right by the Louvre, which is where we went the next morning.

Thankfully we decided to hit up the Louvre as soon as it opened, because by the time we left it was packed, and again too many people breathing my air J Another convenient tip, from one traveler to another, is that museums in France are free the first Sunday of every month. Cheap traveler score! The Louvre is overwhelming. It is huge, gorgeous, confusing, etc. I can check off seeing the Mona Lisa from my bucket list, but honestly that isn’t why you should go to the Louvre. Luckily one of the girls on the trip, Patricia, is an art history major, and could tell me why certain things should impress me, and what to pay attention to. I love the building of the Louvre almost more than the art inside. As the Louvre website says, it went “from Château to Museum,” and some of the rooms are just jaw dropping fantastic.  The paintings on some of the ceilings and structures made me stop in my steps and think how insane it is that someone used to live there. I think just walking around in there just made me soak up a little more intelligence.

Patricia showing me how to keep classy around classy art.

Today also brought back flashbacks for Skylar and I of Dr. Egloff’s class. We realized after we had to pay 8.20 euro for a bottle of water, that we should have asked for a carafe d’eau (which is free), instead of just flat water (which came in a sealed bottle). It is an expensive lesson we will not forget again. Despite that, Paris was a huge success, even just walking around and taking pictures of random beautiful buildings and sculptures was fun. I am happy to be back in Caen and ready for classes, but I dream of when I can return to Paris!

Exploration

 Exploring the city has been the main activity on my agenda the past couple of days. I think I am beginning to figure out my way around town. I like to walk most of the time, because it helps me remember how to get places and make a mental map. Walking in Caen also lets me enjoy my beautiful surroundings. I keep expecting people to pop their heads out of windows and sing "Bonjour" like in Beauty and the Beast. However, I have also begun taking the tram system if my destination if further away.

Today, we tried to find a bank downtown to set up French accounts, but never could find it. We asked several people for directions, but no one had heard of it. We are going to try again tomorrow, hopefully with its address in hand. While downtown, we stopped at a Boulangerie (Bakery). I bought what I think was called Une tarte chèvre tomate, which was tomato and goat cheese on bread, and un pain au chocolat. I ate the tarte first and saved the bread and chocolate for later. Both where amazing and inexpensive! I will definitely be making bakery visits often over the next four months. The food here is delicious. I have had crepes, quiche, galette des rois, and more!

La tarte chèvre tomate

Pain au lait, Camembert cheese, nutella and an apple.

 I also went to Le Château Ducal, William the Conquerer's Castle, while some of my friends were in class. It was so bizarre casually walking around such an historical place. Not many people were around the castle. It felt like I had the whole place to myself. I climbed up walls to little lookout windows, from which it seemed like I could see all of Caen. I took lots of pictures, and plan to go back soon to visit the museum and the art gallery with my friends.

Outer wall of Le Château.

Part of the interior of the castle.

I am slowly speaking more French, asking for directions, talking to my host family and/or roommate. I can't wait for classes to start. I am sure with them my French will speedily improve. It will also be nice to have a schedule and routine. We are also planning on visiting Paris for the weekend!