Crushing it in Caen

The past two weeks have been filled with classes and trying to make travel plans. Classes have been good. I actually offer up answers without being forced to now! The first week of class I lived in fear of the teacher calling on me, and always tried to look busy or confused and never make eye contact. Friday was a personal triumph, because of the handful of French knowledge that I know, I was able to answer two questions. I think my teachers were impressed that I knew who wrote Madame Bovary (Gustave Flaubert) and that I had seen the movie L'elegance du hèrisson. Class is always interesting with all the different first languages and cultures of my peers. The other day I had to explain to my Japanese classmate that, in English, guys call pretty girls “hot chicks” and not “hot chickens.”  We range from the US and England to Mongolia and Ghana. I can only imagine how hilarious it must be to all out teachers to listen to our awful accents.

The professors here are all engaging and helpful. When I have big breaks in between classes, I like to hide in a corner of the international building on the top floor and read. One of the first days I did that, I met a professor named, Emma. I was in the bathroom pretending to understand what she was saying to me in French, and when I turned around to walk out she asked me in English if I was American. Apparently, an LL Bean backpack is a dead give-away. I’m not actually sure what she teaches at the university, but she has been so nice. She always asks about how I like my host-family, and if I am making friends. She also gave me a website to look at to find stuff to do in France. I keep waiting to meet those stereotypically rude French people, but it just has not happened yet. Maybe I am in the wrong France J

In other news, I think my friends and I have finally figured out how to order train tickets online, which is good, because I think the people at the train station are sick of us trying to buy tickets from them, and then deciding not to go… Other than realizing that traveling to London for a weekend was more expensive that my poor college-student-self could afford, and Fifth Third thinking I was not in France and putting a hold on my card, things have still been going really well.

I went out with the girls from my program on Valentine’s to a restaurant on the road we have deemed “the cute cobblestone road.” I tried duck for the first time, and it was delicious! The only way I could think to describe it to my friends was if a cow and a chicken had a baby, but it was different. They didn’t understand. We had champagne with dinner, and then walked to a gelato shop. Not a very romantic Valentine’s Day, but at least our waiter was cute! We have also found this little crêperie that we have gone to two Saturdays in a row. We went to a karaoke bar with a bunch of people from school this weekend. No one from our group actually got to sing though, because the wait was so long. It was really funny to hear people sing songs in English with thick accents though.

Today I had lunch with my host-family, and came back up to have a crêpe snack. I also got a French reading and pronunciation lesson with the eldest daughter (she is eight). It was actually really helpful, and I think we are going to try to do it several more times. When my lesson was over, we played the French version of the game of “Life.” It was an edition from when the parents were children, and used francs instead of the euro. I also played (and lost) several rounds of Uno. Then I met up with some friends for Kabobs in town.

Saint Pierre Church in
Downtown Caen.

I still have the nasty little habit of pretending I understand what people are saying in French, when in fact I don’t have a clue. I tend to smile a lot and repeat oui, and hope I didn’t miss anything important. Sadly, or luckily depending on how you look at it, my host-mom has caught on and now asks me questions to ensure I actually understood and wasn’t just lying. However, I know my comprehension is getting better even if only a little, and I am starting to gain more confidence to admit defeat and to ask clarifying questions when I am confused. It is also lucky that I can talk to my roommate in Spanish, when I am at a loss for words in French (which is most of the time).  It does feel a little bit like cheating though when I do. I figure it’s okay to though, because:

                    A.     It isn’t English.

                    B.     Practicing Spanish will help me not fail all my Spanish classes next semester.

All in all, France is a huge success. Especially now that I have discovered these little caramel custard cups at the grocery. They taste like little flans, and I have become officially obsessed. But I do miss Mexican/TexMex food. My friends and I had a Taco Night, but it just isn’t the same. The seasoning of food here is much milder than at home, and nothing is very spicy. Plus there is no queso here. I still can’t figure out how people here are living without it.

So...Paris

After a whirlwind weekend in Paris, I am happy to be back in Caen. It is really beginning to feel like home. Orientation week classes start tomorrow, and the following week is the final class schedule. I can’t believe we are just now starting class!

So… Paris. This weekend was filled with many firsts: my first train, first time in Paris, first hostel, first mulled wine etc. Everything seemed to fall perfectly into place for us this weekend. We easily stumbled onto every place we had planned on visiting. We got off the train and set off to find the Galleries Lafayette. I had no idea what this was so I just trotted along after Patricia and Jessica into the center of an upscale shopping center where there is an incredible ceiling at the center. We stood there like typical tourists staring up at the ceiling and taking pictures.

Ceiling at the Lafayette

We did not have a strict plan of where we were going to go or when, but we thought we were close to the Palias Garnier. We walked outside and there it was! The Opera house is the setting for The Phantom of the Opera, and is just generally amazing. In middle school, Miss Haley Gray and I saw the movie in theaters several times, and had the habit of locking the door to her room and belting out the soundtrack. A little part of my soul is at rest now after walking around in the fictional footsteps of Christine Daae. I couldn’t help but hum some of the music while we walked around.

Entry of le Palais Garnier.

Being fabulous in the midst of fabulousness.

Chandelier surrounded by Chagall painting in the theater.

We also visited the Madeleine on our way to the Jardin de Tuileries, where we ate lunch, and tried to keep all the seagulls and pigeons at bay. We went to San Chapelle for free! It is crazy beautiful there. You walk up this twisted stone stair and then, BOOM. It is lined with stained glass windows everywhere, my favorite of which is the rose window. The girls and I already put it on the list to revisit when we return.

Rose window of San Chapelle

We also popped inside Notre Dame. We were really confused as to what was going on. There were people EVERYWHERE. There was some sort of ceremony going on, but of course we couldn’t understand what the priest was saying, because it was all in French. We could barely move it was so crowded, and the center was lined with bells. We stayed for a little while, but decided to head out, and return on another trip. I looked it up when we got back, and apparently it was the 850^th anniversary of Notre Dame, and they had just gotten new bells. So I guess it is kind of cool we were unknowingly there for that, but I mostly just felt like too many people were breathing my air.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2013/02/02/notre-dame-bells-850th-anniversary_n_2606375.html?utm_hp_ref=religion

Notre Dame

We went to a small café after for dinner, drank hot wine, and prepared for the hike to the Eiffel tower. The walk to the Eiffel Tower was long and cold, but the Seine River is picturesque at night. We also got to see the Lover’s Bridge on the way. The Tower looked so cool lit up at night. I think it was the perfect time to go too, because it was way less crowded than I expected. After the Eiffel tower we ate crepes at a café to warm up before walking back to our hostel. I had the best night’s sleep so far at that hostel. It was probably, because I was so worn out, but even the itchy wool blanket seemed gloriously comfortable. The hostel was also convenient, because it was right by the Louvre, which is where we went the next morning.

Thankfully we decided to hit up the Louvre as soon as it opened, because by the time we left it was packed, and again too many people breathing my air J Another convenient tip, from one traveler to another, is that museums in France are free the first Sunday of every month. Cheap traveler score! The Louvre is overwhelming. It is huge, gorgeous, confusing, etc. I can check off seeing the Mona Lisa from my bucket list, but honestly that isn’t why you should go to the Louvre. Luckily one of the girls on the trip, Patricia, is an art history major, and could tell me why certain things should impress me, and what to pay attention to. I love the building of the Louvre almost more than the art inside. As the Louvre website says, it went “from Château to Museum,” and some of the rooms are just jaw dropping fantastic.  The paintings on some of the ceilings and structures made me stop in my steps and think how insane it is that someone used to live there. I think just walking around in there just made me soak up a little more intelligence.

Patricia showing me how to keep classy around classy art.

Today also brought back flashbacks for Skylar and I of Dr. Egloff’s class. We realized after we had to pay 8.20 euro for a bottle of water, that we should have asked for a carafe d’eau (which is free), instead of just flat water (which came in a sealed bottle). It is an expensive lesson we will not forget again. Despite that, Paris was a huge success, even just walking around and taking pictures of random beautiful buildings and sculptures was fun. I am happy to be back in Caen and ready for classes, but I dream of when I can return to Paris!

Exploration

 Exploring the city has been the main activity on my agenda the past couple of days. I think I am beginning to figure out my way around town. I like to walk most of the time, because it helps me remember how to get places and make a mental map. Walking in Caen also lets me enjoy my beautiful surroundings. I keep expecting people to pop their heads out of windows and sing "Bonjour" like in Beauty and the Beast. However, I have also begun taking the tram system if my destination if further away.

Today, we tried to find a bank downtown to set up French accounts, but never could find it. We asked several people for directions, but no one had heard of it. We are going to try again tomorrow, hopefully with its address in hand. While downtown, we stopped at a Boulangerie (Bakery). I bought what I think was called Une tarte chèvre tomate, which was tomato and goat cheese on bread, and un pain au chocolat. I ate the tarte first and saved the bread and chocolate for later. Both where amazing and inexpensive! I will definitely be making bakery visits often over the next four months. The food here is delicious. I have had crepes, quiche, galette des rois, and more!

La tarte chèvre tomate

Pain au lait, Camembert cheese, nutella and an apple.

 I also went to Le Château Ducal, William the Conquerer's Castle, while some of my friends were in class. It was so bizarre casually walking around such an historical place. Not many people were around the castle. It felt like I had the whole place to myself. I climbed up walls to little lookout windows, from which it seemed like I could see all of Caen. I took lots of pictures, and plan to go back soon to visit the museum and the art gallery with my friends.

Outer wall of Le Château.

Part of the interior of the castle.

I am slowly speaking more French, asking for directions, talking to my host family and/or roommate. I can't wait for classes to start. I am sure with them my French will speedily improve. It will also be nice to have a schedule and routine. We are also planning on visiting Paris for the weekend!

Finally in Caen!

I can't believe it is already Saturday, and I am in Caen! It still feels like Friday to me, but I guess traveling internationally probably messes with your sense of time. I am settling in to my new surroundings in Caen, and have already unpacked all my stuff.

I traveled in a group of four girls, all participating in the same program. Patricia, Savannah, Skylar and I met up with Jessica once we got to France. We have had a lot of fun finding our way to Caen, and I expect the rest of the semester to be filled with even more fun!

It was slow getting here though. The first leg of our trip was delayed, due to some mechanical issues with the plane that was taking us to Chicago. When we finally arrived in Chicago, we almost immediately boarded the plane that would take us to Paris. Neither flight was too bad, but I started to get a little cabin fever at the end of the last one. I couldn't seem to fall asleep, and was disappointed in the Rock's performance in Journey 2 :)

It felt really good to be on land again when we arrived in the Charles de Gaulle Airport ! It had just snowed, so it was cold, but beautiful. Once we got off the plane, went through customs, and found our baggage, we had to find our bus driver that would take us to Caen. We had a little trouble finding the sign we were meeting under, and I ended up having to ask directions from information (who spoke English). We passed the driver up the first time, and even told him that it wasn't us he was looking for. Luckily, we eventually realized he was, in fact, our bus driver and he drove us to Caen. Most of us took a little nap in the van.

The Tessiers picked me up at the Université and took me back to their house for a curry lunch. I had no idea how little French I knew/understood until that lunch.  However, the Tessiers are very nice and forgiving. They have been speaking a mixture of French and English to me. Hopefully my French will improve quickly so I can better communicate with their three children: Marine, Clara and Arthur. They have lots of energy and are very sweet. Clara already made me a drawing for my room.

I also got to go to the grocery store with Laurent to pick up some things for my breakfast. I chose Frosted Flakes (here Frosties) for a little taste of home. Now I am settling in for the night to hopefully catch up on some sleep that I did not get on the plane last night.

I don't think I am actually homesick yet. I am just questioning if I am crazy for doing this, and wishing I had practiced more French before I came! I am sure in four months I will look back and laugh at my adapting in the beginning, but right now it is a little overwhelming. Maybe I will wake up tomorrow and remember all my French from the past two semesters :)

I have to go back to the university on Monday for Orientation. I am excited and nervous to get started! I can't wait to fall into some sort of routine or schedule.

À bientôt!